Congratulations on your purchase on your new aluminum radiator. This radiator is designed to be
installed in 1uz swapped 1989 thru 1995 Toyota pickups and 4runners. These instructions are designed
to guide you on the installation process, not be an end all of what is required for a successful
installation. Remember that an engine swapped rig is designed by you so adjustments and modifications
may be necessary based on your vehicle, or installation of other products. If you have questions along
the way please feel free to contact us and we will do our best to help you thru the installation process.
Tools required
Grinder
Side cutters
Flat tip screwdriver
Metal shears
Drill
½” Drill bit
12mm socket
6” socket extension
3/8” drive ratchet
Items needed to complete installation but not supplied with radiator
Hose clamps
Upper and lower hoses
4 mounting bolts
¼” thick x 2”x 12” rubber stip. Used as isolator pads. Coolant hose cut can work as well.
Minimum 1” body lift is required for this radiator to fit without removal of lower cross member
Bolts and nuts to secure new radiator
Installation of radiator
1. Start by removing stock radiator after draining coolant. Recycle coolant appropriately. Once
radiator is removed it is time to make modifications to your rig to now fit this radiator. Remove
the hood release latch from the core support. Once the latch is removed it’s time to cut
approximately ½” to ¾” of material needs to be removed from core support where the original
radiator mounted.
2. Now it is time to remove the front of the core support cross brace. You will need to cut the
brace far enough back so as to create enough room for the radiator to sit in its place. Usually
trimming back to the width of the new core support hole is enough. If you want something
cleaner you can remove spot welds and pull the whole brace out.
3. Moving on to the front frame brace. What you will end up with is an “L” shaped bracket for your
brace. You can either remove the brace as a whole, and replace with and angle iron; or you can
cut and hallow out the OEM brace. If you choose to go the hallowed out route, start by cutting
along the top of the brace towards the front of the brace. Second cut the bottom back side of
the brace. Once both plates are cut you can cut the brace hear the frame rail and removed.
Once that’s done the top and back part should come off and be thrown away. With the top and
back part of the cross member removed you will need to remove the welded in nuts from the
bottom and front plate. Once removed this will give a nice smooth place for the radiator to sit.
Rubber isolator pads can be installed to cushion the radiator from the steel.
4. With the radiator in place it is now time to drill new 12mm holes thru the core support and
radiator flange. Once the holes are drilled you can bolt the radiator in place. The radiator
mounting flange may sit slightly out from the core support at the bottom. You can put rubber
isolator pads between the flange and core support to eliminate this gap and provide a cushion
for the radiator against the core support.
5. It’s now time to make adjustments to the hood latch. You will remove the bolt hole tab located
at the bottom of the latch and the metal guard that is found on the bottom of the hood latch.
Cut this tab off and grind smooth the bottom of the latch. Once smooth you can reinstall back
onto the rig. Here is what the latch will look before and after adjustments. Once adjusted this
latch will have about 3/16th of an inch between it and the radiator top. It’s tight but more than
doable.
Now it’s time to cut the center mount off the grill. You will no longer need this mounting
location. If running A/C the grill will need to be flat, while if you are not running the A/C
condenser then trim as needed.
It’s time to fill the radiator with fluid. To top the cooling system off you can add coolant thru the
burp bolt located at the top of the engine coolant bypass. This bolt is found right behind the
location of the thermostat.
Replacement radiator for 1UZ swap 
